A Memorable Daytime Cormorant Fishing in Inuyama

Last Sunday, I had the chance to experience something truly unique— Daytime Cormorant Fishing, or ukai, in the Kiso River at Inuyama, Aichi Prefecture with my daughter and a good friend who visited us after his MSF mission in Pakistan.

The Kiso River has been home to traditional cormorant fishing for 1300 years and it is overlooked by a national treasure, the Inuyama castle, rising above the river banks.

The day was filled with joy, relaxation, and a bit of history. For this article, I would like to share about the cormorant fishing in Inuyama and hope to inspire you to come and experience it.

Cormorant fishing, known as ukai (鵜飼) in Japan, is a traditional fishing technique that has been practiced for over 1,300 years. It’s a fascinating way for humans and birds to team up to catch fish, especially sweetfish, called ayu.

In this fishing method, The senior fisherman or the cormorant master, known as the ushō (鵜匠), uses trained cormorants, a type of bird, to help them catch fish. The birds undergo a rigorous three-year training to learn how to catch ayu before becoming full-fledged fishing cormorants.

Throughout the training, the cormorant master closely monitors the birds' health and works to develop their physical strength. Gradually, the birds learn to rely on their master.

Each bird wears a loose collar around its neck, preventing it from swallowing larger fish but allowing smaller ones to pass through.

The cormorant masters wear traditional clothing passed down through generations. It is both functional and symbolic.

Their attire includes the kazaore-eboshi, a blue linen hat that shields their hair and eyebrows from sparks, and the ryofuku, a long-sleeved cotton garment secured with traditional clasps.

To protect their neck and chest from the bonfire’s sparks, they wear the muneate, which also features pockets for carrying tools to mend ropes. Lastly, they don the koshimino, a straw garment designed to keep them warm and dry during the fishing process.

The cormorant master rides in the boat's prows and works with cormorants, directing as many as 10 or 12 birds simultaneously. A cormorant master skillfully manages the birds’ leads, untangling the lines and pulling cormorants into the boat to collect their fish.

During fishing, the cormorants dive into the water to catch fish. When they grab a bigger fish, the collar stops them from swallowing it. When the cormorant master notices a cormorant with a full throat, he gently pulls it back to the boat and the bird releases the fish into a bamboo basket called ukago. Then, the cormorant is off again, ready to catch more fish!

The cormorant can hold up to ten fish in its throat. After a while, the birds are rewarded with small fish they can swallow, keeping them motivated and happy.

The bond between the cormorants and their masters is special. They are cared for year-round, fed by hand, and often live near their master’s home. This relationship is built on trust and respect, and training a new bird is a process that takes time and dedication.

Today, this age-old practice is mainly kept alive for tourism, especially in places like Inuyama and Gifu. Traditionally, cormorant fishing happens at night with the warm glow of fire lighting up the water, but in Inuyama, you can even catch this spectacle during the day! It’s a wonderful way to experience a beautiful piece of history up close.

Reina and I set off for an adventure, taking the train to Inuyama Yuen Station to meet my friend. It was Reina’s second time riding the train, and she was braver this time.

On the other hand, I was experiencing something new myself – buying a train ticket! I usually use my husband’s Manaca card, so I was lost at the ticket machine. It was Sunday, and the ticket counter was closed.

Although the machine had an English guide, I couldn’t read the kanji for the station name or know the fare. Just as I was getting confused, I asked a kind woman to help us buy the ticket. I watched closely, determined to figure it out next time.

When we arrived at Inuyama Yuen Station, we exited through the west gate and were greeted by a stunning view of the bridge and the Kiso River. There was a large bridge for cars and pedestrians and another bridge for the train.

Below, we can see the boats used for cormorant fishing tours. The meeting area for the tour was just a short walk from the station. Since we arrived a bit earlier, we strolled around, taking pictures on the bridge while waiting for my friend.

He arrived just before 11 a.m., and we walked together to the meeting area. We paid for the tour, which cost 6,000 yen per adult, including a meal, and it was free for children under three.

While waiting in the resting area, we chatted and caught up since it had been more than a year since I last saw him. He tried to befriend Reina, but she was a bit shy and cautious around him— maybe because of his "suspicious" look! 😆

I offered Reina her favorite sweet baked potato and asked my friend to feed her, but she wouldn’t eat from anyone except me. Kids can be so particular! 😅

The waiting area was bustling with people, some dressed in beautiful traditional kimonos. The whole tour was conducted in Japanese, which was challenging for me with my limited Japanese skills, so I relied on my friend to translate.

Around 11:40 a.m., they called for boarding. We got on our assigned boat, where the bento boxes we had ordered were waiting for us. The boat was fully booked.

We had chosen the Wan Maru Kun Bento, featuring Inuyama’s specialty, sweetfish simmered in syrup, known as “ayu kanro-ni.” It was delicious, and I even ate the entire fish, head, bones, and all, as they were soft and easy to eat.

As we cruised along the river, we enjoyed the beautiful view of Inuyama Castle perched on the mountain. The guide on the boat shared some interesting facts about the area, but since it was in Japanese, I focused on feeding Reina, eating my lunch, and taking in the beautiful scenery.

The feeling of eating while surrounded by nature was pure bliss. For the first time after pregnancy, I felt like a tourist again.

After about an hour, we took a short break for the restroom. Then, at 1 p.m., they called us to reboard.

Before getting back on the boat, the cormorant master gave a brief introduction and history of cormorant fishing and the ability of the cormorants. We reboarded to watch the actual fishing.

Two boatmen ride along with the cormorant master. The one in the rear, responsible for steering, is the tomonori. The boatmen use long poles (sao) and oars to maneuver. The boatman in the middle is the nakanori, who also steers and occasionally assists the cormorant master.

There were ten cormorants working together with the master, and they were between three and eight years of age.

The guides from the other boats threw fish into the river, and the cormorants would dive skillfully to catch them. The ushō then pulled the birds up and retrieved the fish from their mouths.

It was incredible to watch this ancient fishing technique in action. The ushō controlled the birds with such precision, and Reina was mesmerized. I was busy filming and taking photos but soon put the phone away to enjoy the moment with her.

We watched as the birds dove gracefully into the water and emerged with fish in their gullet. Reina’s eyes were wide with wonder, and I could see the joy and curiosity in her expression. It was a perfect mix of learning and fun, seeing this centuries-old tradition come alive.

After the cormorant fishing show, we cruised back to the dock. Since we were already in Inuyama, we decided to stroll toward the beautiful Inuyama Castle. Reina fell asleep in my arms as we walked, while my friend kindly pushed her stroller.

We also visited the Sanko Inari Shrine and wandered down the town's charming old street, known as Showa Alley. We stopped at a cozy shop to enjoy some delicious matcha milk before heading back.

By the end of the day, we were both tired but happy 😊. We made our way to the train station, where my friend helped me get my own Manaca card with my name on it— a small but exciting milestone!

We caught the train back home 🚆 and said goodbye to my friend as he handed me my favorite Rikuro's cheesecake from Osaka.

It was a wonderful day filled with new experiences, catching up with an old friend, and enjoying the unique charm of Inuyama.

Here is what to expect in the Daytime Cormorant Fishing Tour in Inuyama:

• 11:20 AM: Arrival
  Please wait at the rest area until you receive boarding instructions.
• 11:40 AM: Boarding
  Board the yakatabune (covered boat) corresponding to the number on your boarding ticket.
• 11:40 AM - 12:40 PM: Cruise and Meal
  Enjoy your meal and the scenery on board. Your reserved bento will be served on the boat.
• 12:40 PM - 1:00 PM: Docking and Restroom Break
  To prepare for the cormorant fishing viewing, tables will be cleared. During this break, the cormorant master will introduce key highlights.
• 1:00 PM: Reboarding
• 1:15 PM - 1:35 PM: Cormorant Fishing Viewing
  After reboarding, the cormorant boat will appear, signaling the start of the fishing. The yakatabune will surround the cormorant fishing boat as we drift downstream, followed by an explanation from the cormorant master.
• 1:35 PM - 1:45 PM: Scenic Cruise
  Enjoy unique views only available from the boat.
• 1:50 PM: Disembark and End of Tour

If you’re planning a trip to Inuyama to experience cormorant fishing, here are a few tips:

Book Your Cormorant Fishing Tour in Advance: Daytime cormorant fishing is a popular summer activity, so it’s a good idea to reserve your spot early—ideally at least three days in advance. You can choose with or without a meal. There is also nighttime cormorant fishing. You can easily book your tickets online or make a reservation by phone if the online is full or not available. Here’s the website link for more details and booking information.

Best Time to Visit: Cormorant fishing in Inuyama usually runs from June to October, so plan your visit during this period. The summer months are the most popular, but visiting in early autumn can offer cooler weather and beautiful scenery.

Combine with a Visit to Inuyama Castle and its Castle Town: After your boat ride, take some time to visit the historic Inuyama Castle, a short distance from the river. The view from the top of the castle is breathtaking, and the castle is one of Japan’s national treasures. You can also visit the Sanko Inari Shine located at the base of the castle. Then head to Castle Town or Showa Alley and try some of its delicious local food.

Kid-Friendly Fun: If you’re traveling with children like I was with my daughter, this is a perfect family activity. The experience is both educational and entertaining, and the boat ride is gentle enough for little ones.

Choosing the daytime option for cormorant fishing in Inuyama offers a fantastic way to experience the scenic beauty of the Kiso River, with a stunning view of the Inuyama castle from the water.

It also offers the unique opportunity to witness cormorant fishing events in well-lit conditions, making it easier to take videos and photos, and providing a clearer view of the relationship between the cormorant masters and their birds.

The natural daylight enhances the visibility of the fishing process, the birds' movements, and the masters' techniques, providing a deeper appreciation of the skill and coordination involved.

It's also a more family-friendly experience and great for children. It is relaxing, fun, and educational.

If you’re looking for a unique adventure in Japan that combines cultural heritage, natural beauty, and relaxation, daytime cormorant fishing in Inuyama is an experience not to be missed.